French

Every home in France has a version of this rustic dish—now my home in New York does as well. I love how the vinegar infuses the chicken with a rich tanginess. Be sure to have some good bread on hand to sop up the sauce.

For four generations, the Vongerichten family has been turning out this tart, which is like a quiche but creamier.

There are countless versions of croque monsieurs and croque madames all over France. My mom cooks the sandwiches in a cast-iron press on the stovetop so that the bread becomes a crisp casing for the filling. I prefer a sandwich that’s hot and moist all the way through, so I bake the cheese on top of the bread and spread béchamel throughout. That’s the key to my version: The bread must completely absorb the sauce. The effort is well worth it.

For years, I’ve made smooth pureed pea soups; they’re always a hit at my restaurants. Recently, I was inspired by my mom to try something new. While visiting New York with my dad, she made a chunky pea and carrot stew with slab bacon and cabbage. I decided to go vegetarian here—doing away with even the chicken stock and creating a tea-like herb infusion instead—and to puree only part of the ingredients, making a light pureed soup with whole peas and sliced carrots scattered throughout. The result is a bowl of spring.

This is something I grew up with, a dish my grandmother and mom always served family-style. For me, this combination—a fluffy, snowy mountain of shaved Gruyère with sliced sweet-tart tomato—is home. In Alsace, we sometimes mixed wine vinegar with honey and spices for the dressing, but sherry vinegar has a similar nuanced sweetness that works very well here.

My grandmother used to take whatever extra livers we had—calf, chicken, goose—and cook them with bacon and a splash of Cognac. She chopped the mixture with a mezzaluna, creating a rustic spread. I swap pancetta for the bacon and puree the mixture in a food processor to create a creamy mousse.

This is the sort of appetizer for a gathering of close family and friends. Picking the artichoke leaves with your fingers and sucking off their flesh encourages (requires?) intimacy. Because artichokes have a strong green flavor, they’re difficult to pair with wine, but a dry Alsatian white should work here.

This simple starter always brings me back to Provence, where I trained as a young chef. There, we served this sea-salty dip with scallions and red bell peppers, but now fennel is my favorite. This dip is so good, it works with any combination of vegetables; pick from my suggestions below. And if you think you don’t like anchovies, you have to try this. The milk mellows the intensity of the fish and the garlic and makes the dip incredibly creamy.

Here is a salad I enjoyed on my first trip to Paris. It was part of a fantastic, produce-filled lunch in a private residence in Montmartre, overlooking much of the city. The key to this simple salad is to use the best possible ingredients—specially the green beans. Serve as a first course with slices of crusty, whole-grain baguette or Italian bread.

These traditional French cakes, usually baked in rectangular tartlet pans, are named for their resemblance to bankers’ bars of gold.

These moist almond cakes are glazed with a thin layer of white chocolate and then topped with crisp White Chocolate Cutouts. Feel free to use your imagination when it comes to shaping and decorating—customize your cakes with a favorite cookie cutter, or adjust the color of the glaze to suit your color scheme.

The dark, crunchy crust of a cannelé gives way to a delicate, pudding-like center. Cannelés are baked in specially designed three-inch-deep molds made of copper, tin, ceramic, or silicone. If you do not have eighteen molds, bake the cakes in batches.

In place of the almond flour, you can substitute two ounces (about 1/2 cup plus two tablespoons) blanched almonds, finely ground in a food processor. Feel free to vary the flavoring by replacing part or all of the lemon zest with orange zest, or omitting it altogether and adding one teaspoon of vanilla extract.

For the flakiest crust, make sure all ingredients (including the flour) are cold before you begin.

Because brioche is made with a large amount of butter, it is important to use the best quality you can find. Remember: The butter and eggs must be cold, or you may end up with something that resembles cake batter, rather than bread dough. If this happens, chill the dough until it becomes workable. Never add more flour, which toughens the dough.

Instead of making two large loaves, divide the dough into four equal pieces for demi-baguettes.

Pissaladière is a specialty of the southern French town of Nice. Named for pissalat (“salted fish”), this tart always includes anchovies, either whole or puréed, which are spread over the dough before baking.

If using dry yeast instead of fresh, heat the milk to about 110°F, then stir in the yeast to dissolve. Let stand until foamy, about five minutes, and proceed with the recipe. The dough can be made ahead through all of the turns and frozen for up to three months; before using, defrost the dough in the refrigerator for twenty-four hours. After baking, Croissants are best eaten within six hours.