Fish

In the past, the only fish many home cooks could get was nondescript frozen, breaded white fish that was pretty bland. Today, even landlocked cities have seafood counters swimming with delicious (and colorful) options. One of our favorites is beautifully pink wild salmon. It looks great, tastes wonderful, and is packed with good-for-you omega-3 fatty acids. Plus, wild salmon (ideally from Alaska) is better for the environment than farmed salmon. Round out the meal with a side of your favorite mix of seasonal vegetables (preferably from your local farmers' market) and—if you're craving yet more color—lemon wedges.

The Sicilian-style tomato sauce has tons of Mediterranean flavor, thanks to the orange peel, olives, and oregano.

I can't think of a better sandwich to take along to the beach, enjoy next to the pool, or keep on hand in the fridge than these wraps. The combination of olives, goat cheese, frisée, and red pepper reminds me of the Mediterranean Sea, making any summer occasion seem slightly more exotic. Thanks to the durable flour tortillas, which can hold alot of heft and moisture without soaking through and tearing, these sandwiches can be made ahead of time.

Food editor Melissa Roberts learned the ins and outs of making escabeche—a Spanish dish that preserves fish by frying it, then pickling it—at Alicia Juanpere's Catacurian cooking school, near Barcelona. As the fish (in this case, robust sardines or mackerel) absorbs the vinegary dressing over time, its flavor deepens, picking up the notes of paprika and cinnamon, orange and lemon.

Your eyes aren't playing tricks on you: Yes, after simmering the fish with aromatics, wine, and tomatoes, we advise you to force every last bit through a food mill—heads, tails, bones, and all—for an incredibly lush soup, tasting of a beautiful union between land and sea (the food mill will strain any unwanted solids to be discarded). A garlicky rouille, exotic with a touch of crumbled saffron, further coaxes out the natural richness of the fish.

The bright flavor helps balance the richness of the other fillings.

A springy take on Niçoise salad, with radishes and asparagus in place of tomatoes and haricots verts.

Peeling spring's fleeting fresh fava beans takes some time, but the results are well worth the effort. You can blanch and peel the beans a day ahead.

Yogurt replaces the usual mayo.

Ramps stand in for both basil and garlic in this new spin on pesto.

Side dishes made from fresh legumes, vegetables, and mint can be found all over Italy, but this quickly cooked version cuts down on labor by using frozen peas and artichoke hearts. It adds a bright touch of spring to cod’s meaty white flakes.

Rutabaga adds an appealing, slightly sweet flavor to the potatoes.

In this simple, fresh-tasting dish, a crisp coconut coating keeps the fish moist and gives it real island flair. Chef Roxanne Russell grates and dries her own fresh coconut to get long, beautiful strands, but any grated dried coconut will do.

Mild tilapia takes beautifully to a robust, smoky cilantro-chipotle sauce.

The word "meunière" is a reference to the miller of wheat, whose wife (acccording to French lore) cooked everything coated with flour. The original French style of trout meunière, then, was seasoned and floured, sautéd in butter, and then topped with the browned butter from the pan. This is still more or less how the dish is done in some restaurants—notably Galatoire's. There is a New Orleans twist on this, however, and I think it's better than the French classic. It was invented by "Count" Arnaud, who, while trying to standardize and stabilize the sauce so the fish could be fried instead of sautéd, added a bit of stock and roux to the butter and lemon. At its best, this sauce is incredibly good and works not just on trout but also on other fried seafood, notably oysters.

_Editor's note: This recipe is from chef Wolfgang Puck. The tapenade can be served as an hors d'oeuvre, in a small bowl, surrounded with tiny toasted bread slices or crackers. At Spago, we spread goat cheese onto lightly toasted croutons, top them with the tapenade, and serve them with our Caesar Salad._