Lemon

Nobody is indifferent to sea urchin roe: You either love it or hate it. Personally, its rich and sexy taste is my favorite flavor on earth. Until I tried the extraordinary mousse invented by Jean-Georges Vongerichten, I preferred it raw. Now I know better. The best sea urchin roe comes from southern California, and is sold in little wooden trays at Japanese markets. It is extremely fragile. It's important to use very fresh roe with a clean, ripe, rather fruity scent.

Jonathan Waxman makes his polenta using stone-ground grits because he prefers their coarser texture. You will, too.

Brussels sprouts, sliced very thin, result in an unbelievably delicate slaw. If you have a really sharp knife and good skills, you could slice the Brussels sprouts by hand, but it's much easier to use an adjustable-blade slicer. Since walnuts are fresh and in season, Waxman uses just-shelled ones in this salad. Pecorino Romano varies in saltiness; you may want to add a little more than we call for here.

Made with crisp radishes, salty olives, and feta, and dressed with minted olive oil and lemon, this salad really sings. Not technically a grain, but rather the seed of an herb, quinoa hails from South America. (It is often called a "supergrain" because it contains more protein than any grain.) Bulgur comes from the hulled, cracked berries of whole wheat, and has a nutty flavor.

Since lima and fava beans have a shorter growing season than most local tomatoes, we've given frozen edamame, available year-round, as an alternative to make this recipe more versatile.

This recipe is a variation on sole Véronique. We've used tiny Champagne grapes for the sauce — they have extremely delicate skins, so there's no need to peel them.

The compote is a mixture of spiced fresh and dried fruits that are cooked in white grape juice and white wine. Any leftovers are great over ice cream or with plain yogurt for breakfast. Prepare the compote and flans at least one day before you plan to serve them.

Fougasse is a favorite in southern France. It is said that the holes cut into the flatbread served a very specific purpose — they allowed a field worker to slip his arm through and carry the bread to work along with his tools. Serve this with the Bourride or as an appetizer, brushed with a little olive oil.

Editor's note: This recipe is adapted from Justin Rashid of American Spoon Foods in Petoskey, Michigan. To read more about Rashid and the northwestern Michigan cherry harvest, click here. "In northwestern Michigan, we have more cherries than we know what to do with, so everyone cans to preserve the summer harvest," says Rashid. "I usually make this conserve with our local Schmidts, which are very black and sweet. But regular Bings, or any sweet variety, can be substituted. Be sure they're ripe, but not overripe — plump, glossy, and firm." The conserve is great on toast, croissants, or biscuits, or with bagels and cream cheese. It can even be thinned with a little red wine and used to glaze a roasted duck.

Doris Jacobson of Anaheim, California, writes: "I host many family gatherings, and I always get requests for my lemon bars. They're easy to make and perfect for picnics at the beach or an evening at the Hollywood Bowl. Plus, they can be made ahead." Lots of lemon zest and lemon juice with all the pulp set these bars apart.

Begin making this at least one day ahead.