Mushroom

New England has a large Portuguese population. Their numbers are most concentrated in Massachusetts fishing centers, such as New Bedford, Glouchester and Providencetown, where they've had an important influence on the cuisine. One of their specialties is fried scallops, Portuguese-style--a sauté of bay scallops in butter with garlic and parsley. We've elaborated on the basic dish by adding shrimp, mushrooms, green onions and a white wine sauce. Serve it over rice, and offer buttered peas or broccoli on the side.

For a richer dish, splurge by adding an ounce of reconstituted dried porcini mushrooms to the sauce.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

A sophisticated dish from chef Roy Breiman of The Restaurant at Meadowood in the Napa Valley. If you can't find duck breasts in your area, purchase two whole ducks, and ask the butcher to remove the breasts for you. Freeze the leg-thigh portions for another use.

Use this snappy seasoning on pork, lamb and beef as well.

This earthy pasta dish is delicious made with the wide, long noodles called pappardelle, or with the thinner and more readily available fettuccine.

A full-flavored Italian blue cheese adds pizzazz to this pasta. Serve the dish with a salad, bread and a glass of white wine for a lovely weekday dinner.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Serve this flavorful roast with its rich mushroom gravy, the mashed potatoes here and sautéed carrots. A fruity Zinfandel would make a good wine choice.

Serve these pastries as the first course of a special-occasion supper — maybe with a bottle of chilled Champagne.

Another all-around favorite: These mushrooms can be spooned over toast for a light supper on their own, but they also make a nice accompaniment to steak or lamb.