Starter

I had heard that some people were making a delicious snack with leftover cheese rind, and I was puzzled by the idea. I called Antonio Santini, owner of <epi:fdictlink id="2236">Dal</epi:fdictlink> Pescatore, one of three three-star restaurants in Italy, and he gave me his interpretation, where you practically grill the rind. Luciano Pellegrini, the chef at Posto, and I decided to experiment. We weren't satisfied, because the rind was kind of chewy. So we decided to try the cheese in a nonstick pan. The cheese is so oily and full of flavor, I thought, let's just stick it in the pan and see what happens. That turned out to be the key to success. The traditional frico is a Friulian dish made with Montasio, a creamier cheese that is very hard to find in America. That's fried cheese, almost like a pancake topped with meat or vegetables. This is flakier and softer. Serve it when people walk in the door.

Beets for this refreshing cold soup were sometimes finely diced, other times coarsely grated. We liked best whichever we were being served, and I still alternate, indiscriminately.

(FARFALLE CON ZUCCHINI) This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

"I visit Portland, Oregon, frequently because my son is in college there. Of the restaurants we've tried, Bread and Ink Cafe is one of the best," says Shelly Pearlman of Fairfax, California. "It's located in a funky part of town not far from the school. The squash and leek risotto I had for lunch was superb." Some shaved Parmesan and fresh sage leaves would make an attractive garnish.

"I return to Seattle's Cassis Bistro for the fine food and service," writes Eleanor O'Keefe of Seattle, Washington. "In addition to the regular menu, there are always some fantastic seasonal specialties. I'd love to make one of their salads—it has dried cherries, bacon, and a blue-cheese vinaigrette."

This elegant first course from American Seasons is topped with parsley oil, which is easy to make and could also be drizzled over roasted fish or steamed potatoes, and other vegetables.

"You should tell your readers about Bistro Banlieue in Lombard," writes Judith Gill of Chicago, Illinois. "The smoked salmon, goat cheese, and leek tart alone is worth the short drive from Chicago." A slice of this rich tart served with mixed greens makes for a perfect starter.

Artichokes and truffle cream make these poached eggs an elegant brunch dish. If you use porcini (cèpes in French), leave the stems attached but trim the side and bottom of each stem well.

Green chilies, cumin, and chorizo flavor this spicy southwestern rendition of the eastern seaboard classic.

Active time: 40 min Start to finish: 1 3/4 hr

These are great with almost any kind of stuffing — corn bread, oyster, sausage, you name it. Pour Spanish wine throughout the meal: a chilled white Albariño or a red Rioja.

If you are looking for a chowder that is deeply flavored and hearty but not overly rich, this is it. It's perfect for a casual occasion, but the "meatballs" deliver an element of surprise, along the lines of an optical illusion, and make it really quite special. The idea for this chowder came from an old San Francisco recipe for "Force Meatballs" in a cookbook called Joe Tilden's Recipes for Epicures (1907), reprinted in Richard Hooker's Book of Chowders. The "meatballs" were actually made from crabmeat, a fun idea that I knew had great potential. Tilden, a renowned Bay Area amateur cook, left only these instructions for his meatballs: "Serve in any fish chowder or soup." So I paired my version of his meatballs with a chowder that had flavors similar to cioppino, the famous San Francisco seafood stew flavored with garlic, onions, bell peppers, and tomatoes. I served it to my wife and kids, telling them only that it was "meatball chowder." The well-browned meatballs look like the real thing, so they were all a bit dumbfounded when they tasted them. My son, J.P., said "Wow, they taste like crab cakes!" Everybody loved the chowder!

"While visiting my daughter near Portland, Oregon, I ordered the soup of the day at Mother's Bistro & Bar," writes Roslyn Levy of Palm Harbor, Florida. "It turned out to be the best sweet-potato soup I've ever had." Buy leafy celery stalks for this soup; the chopped leaves make a great garnish.

If you don't have time to make your own hummus, buy some at the market or specialty foods store, and mix in chipotle chilies and cumin to taste.

Cappe Sante con Mandorle Venice and nearby Trieste are two Italian cities that know how to use scallops well. After all, the shellfish is abundant in the northern part of the Adriatic. In this recipe, from Venice's Fiaschetteria Toscana, almonds add texture to an otherwise soft dish, and the brandy playing off the natural sweetness of the scallops gives the sauce a Sherry-like flavor.

Active time: 1 3/4 hr Start to finish: 5 hr