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Bruschetta — a rustic Italian canapé — is the perfect vehicle for the robust flavors of late summer. Serve these topped toasts as a first course or, with a salad and a glass of wine, as a light supper.

Called "Uncle Johns" in the Monegasque dialect (or barbajuans), these little fried pouches are filled with pumpkin, leeks, rice, and Parmesan cheese. Like their Italian cousins — the tortelli di zucca from Lombardy — they are prepared like ravioli, but the similarity ends there. The dough, though not a pasta dough, is very thinly rolled and made with olive oil. The barbajuans are fried to a golden crispiness rather than boiled or baked, and they are served with aperitifs rather than as a first course.

If you can't get fresh oregano to sprinkle on the peppers, fresh basil or parsley is just fine.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

(Stir-Fried Rice Noodles)

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Made with less water than is used for soft polenta, the firm polenta in this appetizer has a texture like that of dough. Make sure the work surface, rolling pin and cookie cutter are wet — otherwise, the polenta will stick.

Here's a rustic dish that is typical of Naples.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

I like to use Yukon Gold potatoes for these blini because they absorb more cream than other potatoes and thus result in the best possible texture. This recipe will make extra batter, but it's a difficult recipe to reduce. The batter is best when used immediately, but it can be made up to two hours ahead if stored in a warm place (the cream may clot if it gets too cold). Use a scale to weigh the proper amount of potatoes after puréeing them, and make the batter while the potatoes are still warm or the blini will not have the correct texture.

Use baby beets or the smallest you can find.

Glutinous rice is distinctively aromatic and appealingly chewy. Before being steamed, it requires at least 3 hours of soaking (overnight is fine, too).

During June through September, when the garden was most productive, Miss O'Keeffe would often walk with me to pick the vegetables she wanted for supper. She would consider what was ripe and what flavors would be pleasing,then supper would be served near six o'clock. Meals were generally prepared according to the following preferred schedule: breakfast at 7 a.m., the noon meal at 12 o'clock, and supper at 6 p.m. This schedule is one example of the patterns that suited the artist in her nineties.

This simple soup, known as zuppa Sarda, is eaten year-round all over Sardinia.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

(Emilia-Romagna Flatbread with Broccoli Rabe) A piadina is baked on a griddle, folded in half, and filled. In Emilia-Romagna, the fillings might include sautéed greens; cold meats such as prosciutto or salami; and semisoft or soft cheeses such as Fontina Valle d'Aosta. Piadine are usually eaten like sandwiches but can be cut into small wedges to serve as a first course.

This is one of my favorite hors d'oeuvres. Normally I make them as rounds, but I have learned that you can also make them larger in sandwich form, which works very well. Any way, shape, or form, these simple toasts are the best. The onions and mayonnaise melt together under the high heat of the broiler and taste delicious. They're a great nibble to serve to get your appetite going, and they couldn't be easier to put together. I like to use a sweet Vidalia onion if I can find it.