Starter

Offer this spirited dip with green beans, baby corn, radishes and French bread.

"I've been telling everyone about the absolutely incredible birthday meal I had at Park Avenue Café here in New York City," writes Sherri Steinfeld Maxman of New York City. "The knee-weakening menu included Burke's famous "pastrami" salmon; a morel flan served with eggshells nestled in eggcups; basil-rubbed rack of lamb with oven-dried tomato ravioli; Camembert fondue with truffle essence; and a dazzling array of desserts." Executive chef David Burke uses the term fondue freely, in this case applying it to a truffle-flavored cream sauce served with a slice of Camembert. He likes to use Hudson Valley Camembert, a blend of sheep's and cow's milk. It is available by mail order from the cheesemaker, Old Chatham Sheepherding Company in Old Chatham, New York , tel. (888)743-3760.

Manti The lamb will be easier to cut if it has been well chilled. Adding the salt to the filling just before forming the manti prevents the meat from curing.

These crackers are wonderful with figs and a big hunk of Stilton

Fresh Ricotta, Anchovy, and Oregano Toasts Crostini refers to a whole family of antipasti based on thin slices of bread, toasted, sometimes brushed with olive oil, and covered with any number of savory toppings. If you can, buy fresh anchovies and marinate them yourself or buy them already marinated from an Italian or Hispanic deli (where they are known as alici marinati or boquerones respectively; see note below).

Accompanied by the Yogurt-Mint Dip, these fritters make a nice appetizer.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Fried artichokes are usually served whole in Rome as a primo piatto, but we found that cutting them into wedges before frying made them a finger-friendly and addictive hors d'oeuvre. Active time: 1 hr Start to finish: 1 hr

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Pack the precooked crab or shrimp and the tangy sauce separately for this starter.

Anchovies, capers, olives and sun-dried tomatoes enhance the delicious butter. It is also good melted over grilled fish or chicken.

This dip, called fava in Greece, is typically found on taverna menus. As the yellow peas become tender and creamy and the cooking liquid thickens, stir the mixture frequently to prevent scorching on the bottom. This is nice with a chilled Pinot Blanc.

That renewal of my acquaintance with marrow led to the invention of a canapé or sandwich filling that I believe to be without a peer as an accompaniment for cocktails. In the beginning I produced small batches, but they vanished with such unbelievable rapidity that I was forced to make them larger and larger. I pass on the recipe willingly, for the good of the human race, which has too long suffered from canapés that either adhere distressingly to the roof of the mouth or result in unsightly toothpicks scattered on the floor.

Yam Som O Pummelo is an unusual Southeast Asian citrus fruit that is available here in the winter months. It has a very thick skin that ranges in color from pale yellow to dark green. Its flavor is similar to grapefruit's but is sweeter and less bitter, which makes it a great balance for the heat of chiles. Active time: 1 1/2 hr Start to finish: 1 1/2 hr

The classic cold soup, as interpreted by Ouro Branco restaurant, Vila Viçosa, Portugal.