Starter

I know what you're thinking: Another crabcake. Well, all crabcakes are not alike. When this dish goes on Commander's menu, more than half our patrons will order it. They probably feel as my mother does: "True jumbo lump crabmeat is the caviar of Louisiana." We want to highlight the crabmeat, not mask it with heavy binders or frying, so this has no bread crumbs and only a small amount of binder. And the cakes are _not_fried, making them incredibly light. As for the accompaniment, crab and corn are a classic Creole combination.

A wonderful first course, to be followed by roasted meat with vegetables. Pass some additional grated Parmesan cheese if you're not concerned about a few extra calories.

"I'm originally from Ecuador, and I'll never forget the wonderful food there," Maria Budde of Orange, California. "I enjoy re-creating dishes from my home country, and this flavorful starter is typical of my native cuisine. It's simple to make and delicious."

Anne Macrae is a Scottish neighbor in Provence who shares my love of simple, big tastes. She served this luscious gratin one spring evening and explained that she devised the recipe when she and her husband, John, lived in an isolated part of northern Provence, in the Drôme. There were no fresh-produce markets nearby, but thanks to neighboring farmers she always had plenty of fresh goat's milk cheese—known as tomme. Her larder was always filled with the meaty black olives from nearby Nyons, and wild herbs were as near as the back door. In summer months Anne prepares the sizzling, fragrant first course with fresh tomatoes, and in the winter months she uses canned tomatoes. That evening she served the gratin in the individual gratin dishes, but I suggested it might be easier to make one huge gratin and pass it around. "I used to do that," she countered, "but people got greedy and never left enough for the other guests!" So controlled portions it is! This dish lends itself to endless variations: Think of it simply as a pizza without the crust. Add julienned bits of proscuitto, a bit of cooked sausage, sautéed mushrooms, or marinated artichokes. It's also a convenient dish when you're alone and want something warm and quick. I always add fresh hyssop, for the Provençal herb's pungent, mintlike flavor blends well with the tomato-cheese-olive trinity.

Though these bruschetta are a terrific first course for almost any meal. They'd actually make a great lunch as well—just think of them as open-faced sandwiches.

The Provençal specialty known as brandade is typically made with salt cod. Serve this vegetarian version as a main course topped with a poached egg. It's also great as a side dish or spread on toasts for an appetizer.

This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

The azuki (Japanese red) beans called for in the following recipe are sometimes referred to as aduki or adzuki beans. To prevent sandwiches from getting soggy, the salad can be kept in resealable plastic bags and spooned into pita pockets just before serving.

In typical Alsatian fashion, this cabbage has a delicious sweet-and-sour flavor.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

(Provençal Anchovy Vegetable Spread) Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Soybeans in the Pod Sweet, delicious young soybeans, which appear fresh in markets in Japan throughout the summer (they are available frozen in the U.S.), make great hors d'oeuvres. They are packed with protein and fun to eat-the slightly fuzzy green pods tickle your lips as you gently suck the beans into your mouth. Provide bowls for the empty pods. This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Wheat berries, minimally processed grains of whole wheat, are sometimes marketed as hard wheat.