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Profiteroles De Chèvre et Céleri, Purée De Tomates et Persil, R.I.P. Nicolas

Nicolas Jongleux is a Montreal legend. Born and raised in Marsannay, in Burgundy, he grew up working in some of France’s most influential kitchens, including, at age twenty-six, under Alain Chapel at the Michelin-three-star La Mère Charles in Mionnay. He came to Montreal under the guise of partnering in Le Cintra, where he worked for three years. From there he ran the seminal Les Caprices de Nicolas. David says: “He had more talent than anyone I’ve ever seen. I once watched him make sixty identical croissants by hand, no recipe, no scale, and he hadn’t made croissants for more than five years. When he finished, there was not a drop of extra pastry, and each pastry was perfect.” He was also the kind of person who had such discipline all of his life, that he when he left France, he lived the experiences most of us had in our teens, in his thirties. He opened his last restaurant, Café Jongleux, in 1999, and committed suicide in the restaurant later that year. This recipe was a Nicolas classic.

Brochette De Lapin aux Pruneaux

We came up with this alternative to braised rabbit as a way to eat rabbit in the summer. If possible, ask the butcher to bone a rabbit for you. Be sure to distinguish between the legs and the loins (or saddle). In Canada, asking for the kidneys is no problem. In the United States, it is hit or miss. Sometimes we like to serve the skewers with Gentleman Steak Sauce (page 251) for dipping, but they are good on their own, too. Another nice option is an easy pan jus, made by deglazing the pan with a shot of sherry, then adding 1/2 cup (125 ml) chicken stock and 2 tablespoons unsalted butter.

Oeufs En Gelée

Fred used to offer this dish to girls at the restaurant L’Express because it was cheap and quirky. But in the end, that’s how he came across: cheap and quirky! Although it is no longer offered at L’Express, we sometimes make it at Joe Beef both for old time’s sake and because it’s just very good. You should count on two days to make this recipe, the first for filtering and chilling the consommé and the second for assembling the aspics. The classic version includes cooked ham, tarragon leaves, and egg whites cut and assembled in the shape of lilies. Now we do it with Spam, lobster, fava beans, crab, or anything we suspect will be delicious in a set consommé. You can purchase oeufs en gelée molds online, or you can use standard muffin tins made of silicone.

Foie Gras Parfait with Madeira Jelly

This dish, which calls for a whole fresh duck foie gras, has been on our menu since day one. We like it with a thin layer of our Madeira Jelly poured on top, but almost any compote, jam, or jelly can be served alongside.

Queso Fundido

No offense to salsa, but come on, who doesn't love a gooey, cheesy bean dip, bubbling hot like lava from the broiler? If you're a chile head, you'll probably want to up the number of chiles and leave the seeds in. If your friends are more, ahem, delicate, then stick with one chile and remove the seeds and ribs.

Smoked Salmon Toasts with Malt Vinegar Syrup

The Irish are famous for their smoked salmon, so it's a natural for a St. Patrick's Day party. Of course, you don't have to use Irish smoked salmon for these toasts; any cold–smoked salmon will work well, but if you're feeling flush, you will be treating yourself to salmon that is super–silky in texture with a distinct smokiness that comes from spending time near smoldering hardwoods such as oak and beechwood. If topping your salmon with anything other than a gentle squeeze of lemon seems like heresy, don't knock our tangy–sweet malt vinegar syrup until you've tried it. You just might get hooked.

Bacon Deviled Eggs

Skip the bacon if you like and substitute 2 tablespoons melted butter instead.

Roasted Peanut Soup with Honey Whipped Cream

The foundation of this elegant soup? Peanut butter. Make your own by grinding dry-roasted peanuts in a food processor while you roast the garlic. You can use any mild-flavored honey to sweeten the whipped cream garnish, or go Southern with a spoonful of tupelo honey.

Poor Man's "Shrimp" Cocktail

Chef Kevin Roberts transforms humble cauliflower into a dead ringer for shrimp cocktail with a brief poach in cleverly seasoned water and a dunk in cocktail sauce. "It's something my mom used to make for us," he explains. "As kids, we went to the lake a lot, and she would throw this down as a snack. It's also a great party option for vegetarians and people with shellfish allergies."

Lemon Blinis with Caviar and Scallion Crème Fraîche

Nothing says CELEBRATION like blinis and caviar. These quick, buckwheat pancakes, made with baking powder (unlike the traditional yeast-based ones) are brightened with the addition of lemon zest. Use whatever caviar you prefer and your budget will allow. We are quite enamored of the trout caviar made in North Carolina (see Cooks' Notes). The roe is a beautiful pale orange with a delightfully firm texture that pops in your mouth. Better yet, it's much more affordable than imported or domestic sturgeon caviars (see Cooks' Notes).

Cheese Puffs Gougères

Based on the classic pâté à choux or cream puff pastry from my culinary school days, this elegant and easy appetizer can be made ahead. It can be prepared dairy-free, too, but egg substitutes won't work as the eggs are necessary to help create the structure of these bite-size treats.

Garden of Eden Soup

This chilled soup always makes me imagine what summer in Eden must have been like: silky, verdant, bright, and refreshing. My only other need would be a glass of cava or vinho verde to go with it. The quality of your avocados is key to this recipe. Try to find the Haas or Bacon varieties from a domestic grower—the Fuerte ones from Chile (which are common in supermarkets) are too watery.

Spanish Deviled Eggs

This recipe is all about the eggs, so use the best you can find; farm-direct pastured eggs are ideal (though even commercial eggs are delicious deviled this way). Deviled eggs tend to disappear the second you serve them, so it’s always good to make more than you think you might need. This recipe can easily be doubled. If you’re bringing these to an event, it’s best to prepare the components ahead of time and assemble the eggs on site. It’s much easier to transport that way.

Oven-Seared Shrimp with Shallots, Chiles, and Thyme

In this fast and easy recipe, the shrimp release their juices and create a delicious sauce in the pan. Using unpeeled shrimp with heads on does make it a little messier to eat, but the results are finger-licking good. If serving this as a main course, a bed of couscous or steamed rice is a nice accompaniment to help soak up the sauce.

Grilled Sardines with Charred Lemon and Chile Sauce

Sardines are small and abundant and have a short life cycle, making them one of the most sustainable fish out there. They’re low in mercury and other toxins that build up in larger fish. Plus, the method used to fish them produces very little bycatch and has minimal environmental impact. Best of all, they are quick-cooking, versatile, and tasty! They can hold up to the bold flavors of the accompanying sauce. This is finger food at its best, perfect for outdoor cooking—and eating. If you have any seasoned fruit wood or grapevines, add to the coals or use to build the fire—the flavor will take you directly to the Mediterranean. If it’s not grilling season, you can make this indoors in a well-seasoned cast-iron skillet instead.

Grilled Peaches with Blue Cheese and Hazelnuts

These grilled peaches are infinitely versatile: you can eat them by themselves as a light first course; for a more substantial salad, serve them on a bed of lightly dressed arugula. They are even lovely as dessert. The best part is that you can grill the peaches a few hours ahead of time and then assemble them just before serving. For best results, use peaches that are ripe but still relatively firm; the extra sturdiness makes them easier to manipulate on the grill. And freestone varieties (ones where the pit separates cleanly from the flesh) are by far easier to work with here than clingstones. If you can’t find hazelnuts, almonds or walnuts will work nicely, too.

Romesco Chicken Salad

This unique chicken salad is bound together with romesco sauce, the Spanish puree of red peppers, almonds, and olive oil. It takes the classic chicken salad sandwich to another level, but piled on crostini, sliced baguette, or even mini tart shells, you can also turn it into a fabulous hors d’oeuvre.

Ginger-Lemongrass Chicken Skewers with Spicy Peanut Dipping Sauce

At the Market we sell platters of these as appetizers, but they’re also a great way to make a little bit of chicken stretch into a light entrée. They’re always a crowd-pleaser, so make more than you think you’ll need. The skewers are wonderful paired with grilled or steamed veggies and a mound of coconut-infused rice. Leftovers are great on a sandwich, too. For this recipe, you’ll need thirty 6-inch or 8-inch wooden skewers (a few extras never hurt) that have been soaked in water for 2 hours.

Sautéed Figs with Prosciutto and Parmigiano

Like the grilled peaches on page 249, these figs can be served as an hors d’oeuvre, as the anchor for a green salad, or as a garnish for roast pork. Because you’re wrapping the prosciutto around the figs, it’s best to use slices from the widest part of the ham. If the prosciutto is smaller, buy two slices per fig and use toothpicks to secure the prosciutto around the figs.
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