Christmas

If you aren't a restaurant chef or caterer, you probably don’t want to cook a 40-pound round roast, which is what most Buffalo chefs use. But a nice eye of round, 4 to 6 pounds, works fine.

In England, plum pudding was required at Christmas in the nineteenth century, and it still is today. This luscious cake takes its cues from that beloved dessert. It combines the flavors of a plum pudding in a chocolate cake and iced it with fudge frosting.

This rib-sticking soup makes a fine meal, especially with a salad alongside. See how to dice potatoes.

For accompaniments, toss watercress and thin slices of red onion with Dijon vinaigrette, and add chopped fresh basil to stewed tomatoes. Pecan pie can top it off.

This impressive dessert is the sum of many parts that can each be made several days in advance. Assemble the trifle the day before serving to allow the cake to absorb the custard and the flavors to fully develop. Active time: 2 1/2 hr Start to finish: 13 hr

Poach the pears and serve with traditional anise-flavored fried pastries. Start the pears one day ahead.

We loved L.A. chef Mary Sue Milliken's crisp baked-tortilla crackers in her pool-party menu (August 2000). Here, we invent our own version of them.

This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less. This recipe also works with oranges and tangerines: Substitute 2 oranges or 3 tangerines for the grapefruit.

Rum and spices-classic Caribbean ingredients-also happen to be the classic ingredients in the traditional English steamed pudding. This lovely version of the Christmas dessert is from the Grand View Beach Hotel, Villa Point, St. Vincent and the Grenadines. Begin preparing it at least one day before serving.

What northerners call stuffing, southerners call dressing. Oysters and eggplant are a classic Louisiana combination, and the bite of cayenne adds to the authenticity. Active time: 1 hr Start to finish: 2 1/2 hr

This luscious homespun treat is great with vanilla ice cream or frozen yogurt.

"The recipes here reflect my British roots, but not necessarily my family traditions," writes Mairi Morrison of London, England. "Although my mother is from Scotland and my father is from Northern Ireland, I grew up in Los Angeles, where our weeknight meals were typically American: spaghetti, tacos, and burgers. It wasn't until I moved to Europe that I became really interested in food. Here in London my social life is centered around the table. I really like this dish because it is typically British, and perfect for a rainy winter evening in London." Make these ahead if you like (they will keep for a week in the fridge) or make them on a whim, since the recipe is so easy. Lyle's Golden Syrup is a popular British sweetener with a flavor that's similar to mild honey.