Double-Dark Chicken Noodle Soup

Preparation

1. Dark chicken stock:

   Step 1

   Trim dark green leaves from leek; discard all but 2. Slice leek in half lengthwise; set aside. Tuck parsley, thyme, and bay leaves inside leek leaves; tie closed with kitchen twine.

   Step 2

   Heat oil in a large heavy pot over medium. Working in batches, cook wings, turning often, until browned all over, 15–20 minutes. Transfer to a plate.

   Step 3

   Add onion, carrots, celery, garlic, and reserved leek to pot. Cook, turning occasionally, until browned, 10–12 minutes. Add tomato paste; cook, stirring, until slightly darkened, about 3 minutes. Add 1/2 cup water, scraping up browned bits. Add wings, leek bundle, peppercorns, and 12 cups water; bring to a boil. Reduce heat; simmer, skimming occasionally, until stock is deep amber and chicken is falling off the bone, 1 1/2–2 hours. Remove chicken and vegetables. Strain stock into a clean large heavy pot.

2. Assembly:

   Step 4

   Bring stock to a simmer over medium-high heat; season with salt and pepper. Add thighs, cover, and simmer until cooked through, 8–10 minutes. Transfer thighs to a plate; let cool slightly. Shred meat; discard bones.

   Step 5

   Add carrots and onions to pot; simmer until tender, about 5 minutes. Add meat. Meanwhile, cook noodles in a pot of boiling salted water until just al dente, 7–8 minutes. Drain; rinse under cold water. Add to soup. Serve topped with chervil.

   Step 6

   Do ahead: Soup (without noodles) can be made 2 days ahead (or 2 months if frozen). Let cool; transfer to airtight containers and chill.