The French call this appetizer caviar d’aubergine because the feel of the eggplant seeds on your tongue is similar in texture to that of fish eggs. A delicious and easy-to-prepare dish, it has been in the French Jewish repertoire since at least the turn of the last century, when Romanian immigrants introduced the French to their ways of grilling the eggplant with its dark skin intact, a technique learned in the Middle East via the Caucasus. At about the same time, Russian and Romanian immigrants also brought this so-called poor man’s caviar with them to France. Whereas earlier generations used a hand chopper to make this dish, often blending in either lemon juice and olive oil or tomatoes and green peppers, today most cooks pulse it in a food processor. Although it is easier to roast the eggplants in the oven, oven- roasting will not give you the smoky flavor that comes from grilling over an open flame. This is a recipe to play with. Add diced onion, cilantro, or paprika, if you wish, or a few tablespoons of grapefruit juice or even mayonnaise. I have tasted all kinds of eggplant caviar. The last was at a very upscale French Bat Mitzvah, where the eggplant, laced with pesto, spiced with cumin, and decorated with tiny pansies, was served in an eggshell at the Kiddush after the service.
For a variation from Fez, cut the raw eggplants in half lengthwise. Make a slit in the cut side of each half, and insert an unpeeled clove of garlic in each slit. Brush the cut side with olive oil, place on a baking sheet, cut side down, and roast, along with three red peppers, in a preheated 350-degree oven for 30 minutes, or until the eggplants are very soft and the peppers are charred. Let cool in a bowl, then peel the eggplants and the peppers, discarding the skin and any liquid that has accumulated. Squeeze the garlic cloves from their skin. In a food processor fitted with a steel blade, purée the eggplants, peppers, and garlic along with 2 tablespoons olive oil, 2 teaspoons sweet paprika, 1/2 teaspoon cumin, and salt, freshly ground pepper, and hot red pepper to taste.
