Wassail

Wassail means different things to centuries of people. Used as a noun and verb, the word derives from waes hael, a 5th-century English toast meaning “good health,” or something apple farmers recited to encourage a bountiful spring harvest, depending on which historical account you believe. The term also pops up in Beowulf—and later in song lyrics—and can mean the act of caroling (or a similarly festive activity), a toast akin to “cheers,”...or a Christmas cocktail made with fruit juices, baking spices, and brandy, wine, or ale.

The latter is tasty and timeless. Hot wassail is essentially mulled cider; customize the spicing by adding star anise, peeled coins of fresh ginger, or some crushed cardamom pods (strain out the solids before adding the fruit). Granny Smith apples are tart and firm enough to maintain their integrity in the warm drink, but you could swap in any firm baking apple. Substitute all-American applejack for the Calvados if you like, but be sure to use fresh apple cider, not apple juice, so the flavors stay balanced. Depending on the sweetness of your cranberry juice, you may want a squeeze of lemon juice or to add an orange slice to each mug for brightness.

Keep your homemade wassail warm in a large pot over low heat on the stovetop, or use a slow cooker on the warm setting and have ready a plate of molasses cookies—everyone is going to want to stick around for a bit.