This is my version of an undersung regional Mexican dish that’s deeply satisfying yet remarkably light. In Spanish it’s called caldo de queso, featuring chunks of potato simmered in tomato-tinted broth until soft, with fresh cheese such as queso fresco added to each bowl. The cheese mostly keeps its shape but softens and begins to break apart. I like adding whatever vegetables happen to be in season, such as poblano chiles, summer squash, and tomatoes.
Milk is usually added to this style of soup, making a creamier broth that serves as a bridge between the cheese and all the vegetables. But you can also leave the dairy out for a brighter tasting broth. Chicken stock is traditionally used in caldo de queso and it's what I prefer for its richness, but vegetable broth will work, too, for an even lighter soup. Unlike most traditional versions, I add vinegar, fresh tomatoes, and lots of fresh oregano to balance the soft, rich cubes of queso fresco.
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Recipe information
Total Time
45 minutes
Yield
4 servings
Ingredients
Preparation
Step 1
Heat oil in a large Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium. Cook red onion, chile, and 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, stirring with a wooden spoon, until starting to soften, about 3 minutes. Stir in garlic and tomato paste, breaking up paste so it coats vegetables, then add squash, potatoes, and broth. Increase heat to medium-high and bring broth to a simmer. Reduce heat to medium and cook until potatoes are almost falling apart, 15–20 minutes.
Step 2
Add cherry tomatoes to pot and cook until warmed through but not bursting, about 3 minutes. Stir in oregano and vinegar and simmer 2 minutes to allow flavors to blend. Remove from heat and stir in milk (if using). Taste soup and season with more salt if needed.
Step 3
Divide queso fresco among bowls and ladle soup over, stirring to prevent cheese from clumping.
