Make Ahead

GELATO DI MELONE

Ideally, the sweet wine in the marinade should be Muscat, a famous Samos wine.

Crusts made of ground biscotti and almonds accent this do-ahead dessert.

Ghee Active time: 25 min Start to finish: 30 min

A well-sharpened French mandoline with a fluted blade is the secret to these paper-thin potato wafers with a waffle design. Active time: 55 min Start to finish: 1 1/4 hr

Dorothy Williams of Vancouver, British Columbia, writes: "To celebrate our 25th wedding anniversary, my husband and I spent a week in Victoria, British Columbia. We particularly enjoyed Abigail's Hotel, where we had some delicious carrot-coconut cupcakes." For a lovely breakfast muffin, omit the cream cheese frosting.

Spoon these cherries over ice cream or pound cake, or serve them topped with whipped cream and biscotti.

"I was in Boston on a business trip when I discovered the city's North End and its many old Italian restaurants," writes Jennifer Fassman of Westport, Connecticut. "After wandering around the small, quaint streets, I was surprised to find a bright, modern restaurant — Marcuccio's. I took the waiter's advice and ordered the sea bass with parsley sauce. It was incredible." At the restaurant, this entrée is served with sautéed broccoli rabe (also known as rapini). It would be great with spinach, too.

Tart apples and sweet ones come together in this all-American favorite.

Be sure to brush the grill clean while it's hot before adding the fruit.

Active time: 25 min Start to finish: 4 hr (includes chilling)

Inspired by the poppy seed breads made in many Russian homes, these cookies capture the traditional flavors without the time investment of making a yeast bread. You can substitute 1 cup walnuts (toasted, cooled, and finely chopped) for the poppy seeds if you prefer.

This recipe makes more charmoula — a Moroccan herb and spice paste — than you'll need. You can use the leftover to rub on chicken or salmon before grilling. Active time: 30 min Start to finish: 1 hr

The word mash means mung bean in Farsi and Farsi-related languages like Azeri and Tajik, as well as in Turkic languages such as Uzbek and Uighur. The word kichiri is like the Hindi word kitchri, a name for rice dishes made by cooking rice together with other ingredients. (The British took the idea and the name and turned it into "kedgeree.") We like this satisfying meal-in-one stew we learned in Tajikistan. Potatoes, carrots, and tomatoes give variety of taste and texture to the main event, a spiced combination of mung beans (yellow dal) and long-grain rice. Mashkichiri is quick and easy to prepare once the mung beans have soaked, and all too easy to eat in large quantities when accompanied by plenty of yogurt. Serve it as a simple meal in one, or serve with kebabs and a side dish of something crunchy, like sliced cucumbers or radishes, or Persian pickled radish. The winter version of this dish would have no tomatoes, and would use more carrots and onions instead. Winters in Central Asia are harsh, and there are few fresh vegetables to be had. Root vegetables, which can be stored and used when other vegetables are available, aren't an important part of the winter diet.

To roll out this dough you will need a pastry cloth and a rolling-pin cover, which are available at kitchenware stores and by mail order from Bridge Kitchenware, tel. (800) 274-3435 or (212) 838-1901.

This works equally well with raw vegetables or chips — or as a sauce for cold poached salmon or shrimp.

For a more colorful presentation of this down-home dip, we reserved some bacon, bell pepper, scallions, and basil for garnish. Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.