Bon Appétit

The syrup is also used to coat the apple wedges and grapes that garnish each plate.

Every visitor to Paumanok Vineyards enjoys a warm welcome from owners Ursula and Charles Massoud. She learned viticulture in her parents' vineyards in Germany; he taught himself to make wine when his job with IBM took the family to the Middle East. Ursula, who is known for her outstanding comfort food, pairs Paumanok's semi-dry Riesling with an onion tart she makes at harvest time. "It's traditional in my hometown to serve it when the Riesling juice is still fermenting. The sweetness of the onions matches the sweetness of the new wine."

Verjus is a tart grape juice made from unripe wine grapes. Milder than vinegar, it can be used in salad dressings without competing with an accompanying wine the way vinegar does. Look for it at specialty foods stores or online at chefshop.com and terrasonoma.com. What to drink: Pour an Oregon Pinot Noir with the salad and the Herbed Lamb Chops with Pinot Noir Sauce.

For this one, you will need six 4 1/2-inch tartlet pans with removable bottoms.

Judi Kerr of Mendham, New Jersey, writes: "I'm a professional chocolate taster. I know it sounds like a dream job, but I get so much chocolate at work that I tend to avoid sweets when I'm at home. At the end of most days, I actually look forward to cooking dinner and making something hearty, like my chicken and white bean chili. On the occasions when my husband and I entertain, I often go back to my southern roots and make my grandmother's spirited pecan pie. The filling for this pie contains no corn syrup, which gives it a rich, dense texture.

Fresh muscats are somewhat difficult to find, but they're worth seeking out for their musky flavor. what to drink: A smooth white. Try: La Crema 2003 Chardonnay, Russian River Valley ($24). The chicken paillards would also be wonderful paired with Robert Sinskey Vineyards 2004 Los Carneros Pinot Blanc, Napa ($18).

Use the season's first wild mushrooms in this satisfying vegetarian pasta.

This sweet-tart chutney is great alongside lamb or pork chops, atop goat cheese and crackers, or on biscuits with sliced ham.

The "crumble" in this case is a buttery shortbread topping.

Traditionally, this Mediterranean fish soup is spooned over slices of toasted bread that have been rubbed with garlic. In this version, it is served with fresh bread (see the Lemon and Rosemary Fougasse recipe) and aioli — for stirring into the soup or spreading on the bread.

What to drink: Try these with a lightly chilled Oregon Pinot Gris.

Chicken, not fish, is the star in this version of the hearty Provençal soup. IMPROV: Make this dish even more flavorful by adding a faux rouille. Combine 1/2 cup mayonnaise with 2 minced garlic cloves, 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice, and 1/2 teaspoon paprika; season with salt and pepper. Top each serving with a dollop.

The Lenz Winery, one of the oldest on Long Island, has had the same winemaker, Eric Fry, since 1989. Fry's mantra is "Ripe fruit!" — and hows in the Lenz Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine has an amazing concentration of flavors, an intense raspberry and black-cherry nose, and smooth tannins that provide a long finish. In short, it's a perfect partner for Fry's deeply flavored venison stew. In this satisfying harvest dish, venison is browned, then oven-braised in wine. Fry puts any leftovers on a roll for lunch.

Even easier: The base for this ice cream — a warm orange custard — is equally delicious with the Apple-Raisin Crumble. Instead of turning it into ice cream, just spoon the warm custard over each serving.

Bedell Cellars, along with nearby Corey Creek Vineyards, is owned by New Line Cinema CEO Michael Lynne, who has spared no expense in fine-tuning — not to mention set designing: Art from his private collection, including works by Cindy Sherman, Sam Taylor-Wood, Uta Barth, and Sarah Morris, decorates the tasting room. Bedell has been known since 1988 for producing the best Merlot on Long Island: Less California and more Bordeaux in style (softer tannins, nuanced fruit), the Merlot is a delicious match with duck.

Produced in the region of La Mancha, Queso Manchego is among Spain's most noteworthy cheeses. It is often served with quince paste (membrillo) — an inspired union of flavors. Spanish Manchego can now be found in many supermarkets. Quince paste is available at some supermarkets and specialty foods stores and online from thespanishtable.com.