Bon Appétit

Squash with long, thin necks will yield uniform rounds when sliced and ensure even cooking.

Thinly sliced garlic is simmered in olive oil until it is so tender that it nearly melts.

Boston brown bread is in the canned-vegetable aisle of most supermarkets.

Because Gruyère is somewhat salty, use unbrined roast turkey in this dish. Also, and old-fashioned turkey gravy (no cider or soy sauce) will enhance the gratin best.

You'll need metal turkey-lacing pins (sold at supermarkets) to secure the roulade. Because they grow up to be portobellos, crimini are sometimes labled baby bellas. They are often sold in 6-to 8-ounce containers.

No rolling required: Here the tortillas are layered with the filling (New Mexico-style) so that each person gets a neat stack. Rewarm the turkey in broth or water in the microwave, or in a skillet on the stove.

The milder flavor and softer aroma of Turkish bay leaves are preferable in this dish.

For best flavor and moist, juicy meat, brine the turkey for 36 to 48 hours. If you are planning to brine it in a cooler, plan on needing extra ice. Kosher salt is preferred in most brine recipes for its pure flavor and because it dissolves quickly.

These are especially good when made with leftover grilled turkey.

Rajas are chile strips cooked with onion (raja means "slice" in Spanish).