Nut Free

These pastries are a specialty of Naples, Italy. The key to making them is using the freshest ricotta you can find. Do not substitute packaged ricotta, which can’t compare with artisanal varieties in terms of flavor or consistency.

If you want to give this frosting extra flavor, add a teaspoon of mint, orange, or coffee extract after the chocolate has been incorporated. To frost a four-layer cake you will need to increase the ingredients accordingly: use 24 ounces chocolate, 4 1/2 sticks butter, 3/4 cup sugar, and 1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon each cocoa and boiling water. Alternatively, halving this recipe makes just enough for a standard sheet cake or a dozen cupcakes.

Ganache will thicken as it sits. To cover a cake, it should be pourable but still thick enough to coat. If not, place the bowl of ganache over a pan of simmering water and stir until it reaches the right consistency.

Ganache can be kept, tightly covered, in the refrigerator for up to three days. Before using, warm ganache by setting it over a saucepan of simmering water, then let cool, stirring frequently.

Fresh sour cherries usually appear in farmers’ markets in early July, but the season is short—about three weeks. If you can’t find fresh sour cherries, substitute two pounds of frozen ones; defrost before using. To make the strudel, you’ll need a large, clean cloth and a work surface that you can easily walk around, such as an island or your kitchen table.

If not using immediately, transfer to an airtight container (icing hardens quickly when exposed to air), and store at room temperature for up to one week. Beat with a rubber spatula before using.

This recipe produces a caramel that, once cooled, is quite stiff—the ideal consistency for making bar cookies. If you plan to pour it over cake or ice cream, simply double the amount of heavy cream. This caramel can be refrigerated, tightly covered, for up to three days.

Prepare the mousse at least four hours or up to two days in advance. Refrigerate, covered with plastic wrap.