Simple Cooking

This delicate torta makes a lovely luncheon dish. Served with our Warm Bean, Snap Pea, and Tomato Salad (page 173), it is perfect for a springtime supper. To drain the ricotta cheese, place it in a fine sieve lined with cheesecloth, and set the sieve over a deep bowl; let stand at least 1 hour at room temperature.

Drain the noodles well before coating with sauce.

Tamari soy sauce is similar to regular soy sauce but is slightly thicker and has a richer flavor. It is available at most grocery stores. Besides being the perfect condiment for the tofu, this sauce makes a nice addition to the soba noodles—just drizzle a little bit on top.

Grocery stores often carry several kinds of tofu, so be sure to buy the firm variety for this dish. Pressing the tofu removes excess water and allows it to soak up the peppery marinade.

Look for fresh lemongrass in Asian markets and some supermarkets.

This recipe can be doubled easily. Use a larger steamer, about ten inches in diameter, to cook all four portions at once in the same basket.