Simple Cooking

Using only cake flour produces a cupcake that has a pure-white crumb.

This is about the easiest cheesecake you can make—it takes only fifteen minutes to assemble and one hour to bake. Although rich, this cake is lighter than traditional cheesecakes because it calls for ricotta instead of cream cheese.

Sifting together the flour and sugar four times is essential to achieve the light, airy texture of this cake. You should also be very gentle when folding and transferring the batter so that the egg whites do not deflate. If your tube pan doesn’t have legs, invert it over the neck of a wine, or similarly shaped, bottle to cool.

Meringues are baked on very low heat so they stay perfectly white. It’s a good idea to check them periodically to make sure they don’t take on color. To test if the meringues are done, try lifting one off the parchment—if it comes away easily, it is ready; if not, continue baking, checking every five minutes. Moisture will cause meringues to soften, so avoid making them on particularly humid days.

The dark, crunchy crust of a cannelé gives way to a delicate, pudding-like center. Cannelés are baked in specially designed three-inch-deep molds made of copper, tin, ceramic, or silicone. If you do not have eighteen molds, bake the cakes in batches.

In place of the almond flour, you can substitute two ounces (about 1/2 cup plus two tablespoons) blanched almonds, finely ground in a food processor. Feel free to vary the flavoring by replacing part or all of the lemon zest with orange zest, or omitting it altogether and adding one teaspoon of vanilla extract.

Feel free to substitute 2 1/2 pounds of your favorite dried fruits for the ones called for here. If you choose larger fruits, such as pears or apples, be sure to cut them into a 1/4-inch dice before using. Cakes can be wrapped in plastic and kept at room temperature for up to three days or in the refrigerator for up to six months.

This dough yields enough to make any of the recipes in this chapter that call for it. The shape of your tart—round, square, or rectangular—should determine how you form the dough in the final step.

For the flakiest crust, make sure all ingredients (including the flour) are cold before you begin.

A staff favorite, this pie was inspired by the large selection of apples available throughout the autumn months at the Union Square Greenmarket in New York City. Using many varieties produces the best flavor.

This dough gets its texture from a combination of butter and shortening.

Martha grows gooseberries, which inspired this pie, in her garden in Bedford, New York. Although their season is short (early summer), gooseberries are worth seeking out for their unique flavor. They can be very tart, so increase the sugar if you prefer your pie on the sweet side.

If you are fortunate enough to find wild blueberries while they are in season, by all means use them in this recipe; they are smaller than cultivated berries, so you may need an extra cup or two to make up the volume necessary for the pie.

We like this pie a little on the tart side; if you prefer a sweeter taste, increase the granulated sugar to 3/4 cup. To keep the dough from getting soggy, fill the pie shell just before you’re ready to cover with top crust.

The almond crumb crust is mixed by hand and doesn’t require any rolling, which makes this a great pie for beginning bakers.

This pie can be made with any berry or stone fruit, although we prefer sour cherries, peaches, or blueberries. If you can’t find fresh sour cherries, use two pounds of frozen pitted cherries instead; defrost and drain well before using.

Pasta frolla is commonly used in Italian pies and tarts. It can be frozen for up to one month; thaw before using.