Celery

Artichokes, an Old World food, came to America with Italian immigrants and found a happy home in the near-Mediterranean climate of California. As "ethnic" fare, artichokes took their time catching on outside the Golden State. They finally did in the thirties and became something of a fad. Artichokes were not limited to the vegetable course, either. Sometimes the center "choke" was scooped out and the hollow filled with a stuffing for a fashionable light lunch entrée.

Ask your butcher to make a "pocket" in the veal breast for you.

This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less. We loved this refreshing condiment teamed with lean beef and with grilled shrimp.

Despite its name, the "hot ajvar" called for in this recipe from Zov Karamardian, of Zovs Bistro and Bakery in Tustin, California, is fairly mild. If you cant find ajvar, a substitute can be made by pureeing a seven-ounce can of drained roasted bell peppers with two tablespoons of tomato paste and two tablespoons of purchased chili-garlic sauce, which is available at most supermarkets.

Marinated vegetables from the supermarket salad bar and potato chips are nice with the sandwich. Chocolate cake is a great ending.

Maple syrup in the corn bread adds a touch of New England to this traditional stuffing. The leftover bread is also nice with scrambled eggs or omelets.

We wanted to give this savory starter a modern look for the photograph, so we cut away the curved edges of the celery to make flat pieces. If you're short on time, it looks just as nice with the edges left on. You will have about 1/4 cup deviled ham left over — you can make a few more celery hors d'oeuvres or simply put it in the fridge to serve on crackers the next day.

"Before we got married, my husband, Gregg, and I were working at a small restaurant, and it kept us ridiculously busy," writes Anita L. S. Eberhardt of Beverly, Massachusetts. "Now that we have both left the restaurant business, we have a much saner schedule, although raising two kids certainly keeps us busy. My experience as a professional cook makes it easier for me to throw together a quick meal, which is good because I'm not a convenience-food mom: I try to limit fat and salt, emphasize fruits and vegetables, and use a minimum of prepared foods."

This updated classic adds dashes of red — and depth of flavor — to the usual apple, celery, and walnut mix. Make the salad ahead and refrigerate, then add the watercress and pecans right before serving.

Active time: 20 min Start to finish: 4 hr

I use a small, plump, shrewdly marketed black lentil dubbed "beluga" for this soup, but you can use dark green French lentils or flat olive-green ones, or you can try other pulses such as split peas — green, orange, or gold. Just be prepared to adjust the amount of stock or water. Whole cumin and black peppercorns, crushed just before you add them to the soup, flavor it boldly. I have served this soup three different ways — straight from the pot, irregularly mashed in a mortar, and fully puréed in a blender or processor. Each method produces a different texture and character, and I like all three.

What to drink: Sangiovese wines are a classic pairing with robust pasta dishes. Try the Cantina di Montalcino 1999 Poggio del Sasso, a good-value Super Tuscan.

Active time: 15 min Start to finish: 25 min

Most supermarkets have at least one type of spiced sausage. If you don't have the time to make cornbread, it usually is sold at BBQ restaurants and diners. This recipe is an accompaniment for Maple Ginger Roasted Turkey.

The 2nd Avenue Deli in New York offers this satisfying soup.

These crab cakes are flavored with the "holy trinity" of Cajun cooking: onion, green bell pepper, and celery. Serve them with a helping of coleslaw or a green salad.

Our tuna salad has a Mediterranean twist: olives and roasted red peppers. Have this sandwich for lunch at home or work or on a picnic, served with a tomato salad. Active time: 20 min Start to finish: 20 min