Cheese

Remember those sun-dried tomatoes lurking in the back of your refrigerator? Their punch gives pasta an instant boost.

We're not dismissing the sweeter side of pain perdu (French toast), but custardy, golden bread just as easily goes savory. Here, it’s baked into a puffy, cheesy base for poached eggs and a salad.

Grilling is the name of the game for a vegetarian powerhouse stacked with meaty eggplant, melted Fontina cheese, and a luscious artichoke mayonnaise.

Serve these South American cornmeal cakes with a side of pico de gallo or fresh corn salsa.

This pie was almost my obsession. I desperately wanted a banana cream pie that wasn't too sweet, and I couldn't find one with the right consistency or the right banana flavor. I think this is pretty close to perfect, and the flavors marry well with the Elvis-inspired peanut butter layer.

Try as we might, we couldn't find a substitute for mac and cheese—and we certainly weren't going to leave it off the list. This is the dish that will still be appearing on American tables hundreds of years from now. But mac and cheese in 2009 certainly doesn't look—or taste—the same as it did back in the day. The casserole keeps reflecting our changing tastes. We've seen versions made with every kind of pasta, lighter variations packed with veggies, and super-luxe options redolent of truffle oil. To make mac and cheese truly your own, get creative with the cheese. Here, we use a combination of two of the Netherlands' best-known cheeses: Gouda and Edam.

Before a revolution breaks out, we want to assure you that we still think real fried chicken—soaked in buttermilk and fried in peanut oil until it’s crispy—is the gold standard. But there's no denying that in the past 20 years two factors have had a huge influence on how we cook: speed and healthfulness. Oven-baked chicken satisfies on both counts, offering a crispy, tasty coating and moist meat with less fat and fewer calories. Plus, it's quick enough to make on a Tuesday night. Add a light, bright arugula salad and you’ve got dinner.

This recipe wasn't created, per se; it was a happy accident. One of our new (though lovely) bakers was working on a tray of brownies and pulled them out too early from the oven. They were too underdone for sale, so we cut some out, pressed them into the bottom of a springform pan, and used them as the base of our cheesecake. It has been on our menu ever since.

It's the possibilities in that blank crust that make pizza so much fun. Lately, we've been obsessed with white pizza. Brush the dough with olive oil, sprinkle with mozzarella, and then let the fun begin. Without the acidity of the tomato sauce to contend with, you can really experiment. In this version, asparagus adds freshness and a hit of color, goat cheese brings a creamy tang, and fingerling potatoes (yes, potatoes) round out the pie with their richness.

Most chefs don't focus on salads. Maybe that's how "chef’s salad" came to mean a pile of iceberg lettuce topped with bits of cheese, strips of cold cuts, and wedges of hard-boiled eggs. But with all the fantastic American cheeses and locally produced charcuterie available today, it's time to put the "chef" back in the chef's salad. It doesn't take long to arrange the meats and cheeses atop a bed of interesting greens, then whip up our quince dressing, drizzle—and dine.

If you're under 30, you've probably never heard of rumaki—unless you saw Betty Draper serve the appetizer during the second season of Mad Men. In the 1950s and '60s, the best hostesses wrapped bacon around slices of water chestnut and bits of chicken liver, then broiled the nibble until the bacon was crispy. Rumaki fell out of favor decades ago, but we've noticed that bacon-wrapped dates—the darling of restaurant menus everywhere—have a lot in common with the old-school app. In our version, we stuff the dates with Asiago and brush the bacon with smoked paprika.

This risotto is mellow yet full-flavored.

This light and satisfying soup highlights the earthy flavor of the greens.

Halloumi is a firm, mild Cypriot cheese. When grilled, it gets crisp outside, melty inside. Look for the cheese at supermarkets, specialty foods stores, natural foods stores, and igourmet.com.

Making moussaka is something of an undertaking—a rich meat sauce (made here with lamb, but you can substitute other ground meats such as turkey, veal, or even pork, if you prefer), layered with tender eggplant and a cheese sauce. You can make the moussaka in two smaller casserole dishes to serve one now and freeze one to bake later.

I can't think of a better sandwich to take along to the beach, enjoy next to the pool, or keep on hand in the fridge than these wraps. The combination of olives, goat cheese, frisée, and red pepper reminds me of the Mediterranean Sea, making any summer occasion seem slightly more exotic. Thanks to the durable flour tortillas, which can hold alot of heft and moisture without soaking through and tearing, these sandwiches can be made ahead of time.

Don't let the delicate look of these hors d'oeuvres fool you. A touch of cayenne gives them a hint of heat that makes them a tasty accompaniment to a pre-dinner cocktail—or even a cold beer.

No need to call your local pizza joint. Thanks to prepared dough and bottled roasted red peppers, making your own calzones can be easy and far more satisfying.

Food editor Maggie Ruggiero was humming for weeks after enjoying a salad of fresh buffalo mozzarella, cucumber, and the Italian wheat called farro at the Manhattan restaurant Il Buco. She set about reimagining it, and her version’s accents—tender lettuce, basil, and a light, lemony dressing—beautifully complement the cheese. Since fresh mozzarella is the star here, it's essential to use the best you can find. We love the kind traditionally made in Italy from the milk of water buffalo for its custardlike texture and sweet, milky tang. Recently, some American producers have gotten in on the act as well.

There's no doubt these are some seriously cheesy biscuits, but dill adds a dose of herbal brightness, making them the ideal partner for grits with rosemary bacon (page 61) and fried eggs.