Vegetable

To make a traditional Bloody Mary cocktail, substitute ripe red tomatoes for the yellow ones.

If you prefer, you can bake these muffins in a standard muffin tin; spoon 1/4 cup batter into each cup.

You will need about 2 medium sweet potatoes to obtain 2 cups cooked flesh. We like the flavor of roasted potatoes best, but you could also use boiled or steamed potatoes. Before using, peel and discard the skins.

If you do not have a doughnut cutter, use a 3-inch cookie cutter to cut out the doughnuts and a 1-inch cookie cutter to cut out the centers.

To clean fresh morels, dunk them into a bowl of cold water; drain them on a clean kitchen towel. You can substitute 8 dried morels for the fresh: Cover with hot water in a medium bowl. Set a small bowl on top of the mushrooms to keep them submerged. Let the mushrooms stand until soft, about 20 minutes, then lift them out of the water. Using paper towels, gently press out excess liquid, and let the mushrooms drain on a clean kitchen towel.

If yellow zucchini are unavailable, you can use all green zucchini to make this pie.

These are best eaten slightly warm.

Be sure your kitchen is well ventilated when you soak the New Mexican and guajillo chiles; their vapors can be a mild irritant.

You can use shredded Monterey Jack cheese in place of the cotija and queso blanco. Other wild mushrooms, such as shiitakes, can be substituted for the porcini.