Vegetable

Purchase high-quality pistachios, and pick through the nuts for the greenest ones. After roasting, rub the nuts between your palms to eliminate as much of the brown skin as possible.

We made this flan in a 4-cup savarin mold, but a 9 × 2-inch round cake pan or a 9-inch glass pie plate can be used as well.

If you prefer to omit the bourbon, simply double the amount of hot water.

When put directly on the grill, potatoes will burn before they are cooked through. Parboiling potatoes and wrapping them in a foil packet with seasonings allows for perfectly grilled potatoes with lots of golden, flavorful bits. See page 619 for more spice-mix suggestions.

For crisp browned potatoes, avoid crowding the pan when sauteéing.

If you prefer a completely smooth texture, you may pass the potatoes and celery root through a food mill or ricer after they have been cooked.

Use small red or white potatoes if fingerling potatoes are unavailable.

If making this in advance, wait to add the cucumber until just before serving.