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Despite their name, Champagne grapes aren't used to make the sparkling wine. Legend has it that the grapes were so named because the tiny clusters of fruit resemble the bubbles in a glass of Champagne. What to drink: A crisp, ripe white. Try: Icon 2004 Sauvignon Blanc, House of Nobilo, Marlborough, New Zealand ($20).

If you can't get Nantucket bay scallops, you can use other bay scallops or sea scallops (cut lengthwise into thirds).

What to drink: Try these with a lightly chilled Oregon Pinot Gris.

Nobody is indifferent to sea urchin roe: You either love it or hate it. Personally, its rich and sexy taste is my favorite flavor on earth. Until I tried the extraordinary mousse invented by Jean-Georges Vongerichten, I preferred it raw. Now I know better. The best sea urchin roe comes from southern California, and is sold in little wooden trays at Japanese markets. It is extremely fragile. It's important to use very fresh roe with a clean, ripe, rather fruity scent.

Every visitor to Paumanok Vineyards enjoys a warm welcome from owners Ursula and Charles Massoud. She learned viticulture in her parents' vineyards in Germany; he taught himself to make wine when his job with IBM took the family to the Middle East. Ursula, who is known for her outstanding comfort food, pairs Paumanok's semi-dry Riesling with an onion tart she makes at harvest time. "It's traditional in my hometown to serve it when the Riesling juice is still fermenting. The sweetness of the onions matches the sweetness of the new wine."

Verjus is a tart grape juice made from unripe wine grapes. Milder than vinegar, it can be used in salad dressings without competing with an accompanying wine the way vinegar does. Look for it at specialty foods stores or online at chefshop.com and terrasonoma.com. What to drink: Pour an Oregon Pinot Noir with the salad and the Herbed Lamb Chops with Pinot Noir Sauce.

We modeled these hors d'oeuvres on the little bombs of flavor that Suzanne Goin invented for her Los Angeles restaurant A.O.C. Each bite delivers a huge range of tastes — sweet, salty, and smoky — all at the same time. They're easy to make and completely irresistible; I can't think of a more appealing tidbit to nibble on.

If you soak the dried chiles in the morning, they'll be ready by evening.

These tangy Cheddar crisps puff slightly while they bake, making them a versatile base for hors d'oeuvres.

Helene Cypress of Franklin Square, New York, writes: "My grandson loves this family favorite and always asks for it. I usually end up making extra to share with other guests and neighbors."

Produced in the region of La Mancha, Queso Manchego is among Spain's most noteworthy cheeses. It is often served with quince paste (membrillo) — an inspired union of flavors. Spanish Manchego can now be found in many supermarkets. Quince paste is available at some supermarkets and specialty foods stores and online from thespanishtable.com.

Greg Longphee of Calgary, Alberta, writes: "Could you please provide me with the recipe for the black bean mussels served at Cilantro, here in Calgary?"

Torta del Casar is a unique Spanish sheep's-milk cheese from the region of Extremadura. It has a soft, creamy texture similar to Brie or Camembert, either of which can be substituted. Here the cheese is drizzled with a syrup made from Pedro Ximénez — the sweetest of Sherries. If unavailable, a good-quality Spanish cream Sherry can be used instead.

Before tasting the oysters served by Tadashi Ono at New York's Matsuri, I was convinced that the best oyster is a naked one. But there is something magical about the way frozen ponzu brings out the sweetness of a plump oyster; add the crunch of tobiko and you have something absolutely extraordinary. In our version, we serve the oysters on a bed of seaweed to keep them flat and to retain their liquor. If you can't find seaweed, substitute a bed of uncooked sushi rice. Traditional ponzu (a soy citrus sauce) is made with fish stock (dashi), but we used a kelp broth instead because we found the stock too heavy.

Editor's note: This recipe is adapted from Sardinian chef Raffaele Solinas. Solinas also shared some helpful cooking tips exclusively with Epicurious, which we've added at the bottom of the page. In this recipe, a simple fish broth enhances the flavor of the shrimp. Though head-on shrimp can be difficult to find, it's worth the extra effort to seek them out — they contribute depth and richness. The fregola should absorb enough broth to swell and soften, but the dish should retain a soupy consistency. This dish is traditionally served with carta da musica, a crisp Sardinian flatbread, and accompanied by a flavorful dry white wine such as Vermentino.