Starter

English farmhouse-style white Cheddars such as Montgomery, Keen's, and Fiscalini were delicious in this pie. We also liked Grafton Cheddar, from Vermont.

Oysters Rockefeller were created in 1899 by Jules Alciatore of Antoine's restaurant, in New Orleans, to make use of local shellfish and greens. Named for John D. Rockefeller, this classic first course is likewise rich. Though Louisiana oysters tend to be quite large, it's best to use small ones, such as Kumamoto or Prince Edward Island, for this recipe. The oysters themselves (not the shells) should be no more than 1 to 1 1/2 inches in diameter.

Don't be put off by this recipe if you don't like the slippery texture of okra — it disappears when the okra is coated in batter.

These mushrooms take the place of snails in a play on classic escargots.

As this soup cooks, the kitchen will quickly fill with the tantalizing aroma of leeks stewing in butter with pumpkin, curry, and spices.

To preserve their vibrant color and pure flavors, cook the greens just until they are slightly wilted. The ribs of the greens should retain some crispness.

Fuyu persimmons are an inspired addition to winter salads. This one would make a lovely starter at Thanksgiving dinner.

A Vietnamese-inspired soup for using up your Thanksgiving leftovers.

Hachiya persimmons, which are very soft when ripe, are preferred here (to slice them, use a serrated knife), but ripe Fuyus will work nicely, too.

Larry Leichtman of Phoenix, Arizona, writes: "Thirteen years ago, I sold my business in Los Angeles and moved to Phoenix. One of the first things my neighbors discovered about me was that I love to cook. We get together often, and I'm usually the one in the kitchen. Being the cook means never having to do the dishes." Serve with crackers or baguette rounds.

Peekytoe is a Maine rock crab prized by many chefs for its sweet, delicate flavor. Dungeness crab is probably the closest substitute.