Starter

Using a handheld blender to puree the soup right in the pot makes it easier to prepare. If the celery root is stringy, press the soup through a strainer.

Nice, being by the sea, offers interesting fish dishes. One of these is poutargue, made with dried and smoked roe, which you will find in some delicatessen shops. The roe should be grated or finely chopped. To every 2 cups add 1 cup chopped hard-cooked egg, 1 cup finely chopped onion, a dash of lemon juice and enough olive oil to blend all. Another dish from the sea is raïto or rayte. This is traditional on Christmas Eve throughout Provence. It is reminiscent of other fish stews, including the chioppino of California.

(PASTA CAPRESE)

This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less. Start the meal with gazpacho, then offer crusty bread, marinated green and black olives, and sangria with the salad. End with raspberries atop vanilla custards.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

(Savory Stuffed Pastries)

This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less. This recipe originally accompanied Tapenade Goat-Cheese Crackers.

Chef Suzanne Goin prepares this dish with Taylor Bay Scallops in the shell, but it's also delicious with regular bay scallops, which are more widely available. Be sure to use a good amontillado, the medium-dry Sherry that is lightly aged to give it a mellow, nutty flavor. What to drink: Condrieu, an aromatic Rhône white made with Viognier grapes.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Also nice with crudités and grilled chicken.

This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Old-fashioned (and high fat) favorites take a lighter turn when prepared with nonfat yogurt or low-fat mayonaise; radishes and herbs give the eggs a modern twist.