Fall

This gratin is particularly welcomed on the holiday table by those who love sweet potatoes and hate marshmallows. The cream and butter make this so delicious your guests will lie in bed and remember it happily all year long. You only serve this kind of dish once in a very long while, so the caloric intake is moderated. If your meal has too many sweet potatoes, see the variation for turnip gratin.

It is no coincidence that the method used to bake this bread, steaming, is similar to one used by the native Indians of New England, who taught us how to use corn as a grain for bread. The most famous of our region's breads, this wholesome blend of wheat, rye, and corn flours is suitable for our diets today as it was 300 years ago.

Try these for both dessert and breakfast. They're great with their pan juices or the Apple Custard Sauce.

Early in this century, fresh meat became a staple on many American tables. But old methods of flavoring and preserving beef-corning, for instance, which involved brining the meat with spices-remained popular. Often in New England, leftover corned beef simmered with vegetables would be chopped up and transformed into red flannel hash, so called because of the crimson color beets gave to the dish.

Active time: 15 min Start to finish: 45 min

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

The Smashed Yukon Gold Potatoes and a quick sauté of blanched green beans with red bell pepper strips are colorful side dishes. Finish with slices of angel food cake sauced with thawed sweetened raspberries and generous dollops of brandied whipped cream.

(Bacon and Root Vegetable Stew)

The best way to get warm and cozy after a day outdoors is with this drink, in Ireland known simply as "hot whiskey."

You can start making these savory cookies up to three days ahead. Even easier: Serve the cheese roll with store-bought crackers. (We especially liked this roulade made with a spiced cranberry-apple chutney, but any thick chutney will work.)

Active time: 1 3/4 hr Start to finish: 2 1/2 hr

Chayote (often mistaken for a squash) is a fruit with a cucumber-like taste and texture. The sweet-spicy balance of this appetizer goes well with Sauvignon Blanc or beer.

Surprise — a bit of ketchup helps the sweet and tart flavors blend. Make this up to three days ahead.

This needs to chill overnight, so plan accordingly.

"The Indians and English use them much," wrote one visitor to New England in 1663, "boyling them with Sugar for Sauce to eat with their Meat, and it is a delicate Sauce." Although there is little evidence that cranberry sauce was served at the first Thanksgiving, it is assumed that Indians brought it to the feast. This tangy version gets its intense flavor and color from a mixture of fresh and dried cranberries, along with frozen cranberry juice cocktail concentrate.