Wedge Salad With Toasted Sesame-Seaweed Ranch

Ranch dressing is a vibe, a cult leader, a savior of salads and steamed vegetables everywhere. This version—rife with sesame seeds and the salty depth of toasted seaweed snacks—is full of nutty, savory flavor, while still remaining familiar enough to appease ranch purists. Taking the sesame to a deep brown (near burnt) color, then crushing them releases their sharp, oily intensity, so don’t skip the toasting even if your bag of seeds claims to be pre-roasted. Serve with salad, roasted potatoes (sweet or regular), baked or fried chicken wings and tenders, crispy fresh vegetables, or a poke bowl. It’s ranch. What won’t it work with?