Bon Appétit

Coarsely mashed vegetables are the main ingredients in this utterly surprising — and irresistible — kugel.

Candied orange peel is usually sold in the supermarket's produce section. It is also available from bakerscatalogue.com (labeled "Candied Fruit"); 800-827-6836.

To make the shortbread cookie crumbs for the crust, seal the cookies in a heavy plastic bag and use a rolling pin to crush them into fine crumbs.

Try this alongside roast chicken, spoon it over toasted baguette slices as an appetizer, or top it with poached eggs for brunch.

Baby spinach can stand in for the mâche.

The red portions of rhubarb stalks make the best-looking pie, so buy extra and trim as needed.

Orzo with lemon zest and Italian parsley would be lovely alongside. What to drink: Viognier or French Chardonnay.

Sautéed mushrooms are a classic steakhouse side dish. Here they pair nicely with Stilton, the aristocratic English blue cheese. Improv: Try a less pricey combo of baby bellas and shiitakes. Instead of Stilton, go for Roquefort or Maytag blue. Mâche or arugula can stand in for the lettuce mix.

All that these steaks need is about 30 minutes in a very hot oven: no browning, no sauce, no fuss. Improv: Try the same seasonings on two whole chickens, a pork roast, or three racks of lamb.

Your butcher can butterfly the lamb for you. What to drink: Bordeaux-blend reds, such as Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon, are the perfect match.

Joe Dion of North Charleston, South Carolina, writes: "Because I work in a restaurant (I'm a chef at a place called Slightly North of Broad in Charleston), I don't let my cooking at home get too complicated. I'm at the restaurant five days a week and often work on weekends, but whenever I have the chance I enjoy getting together with friends and cooking for them." This twist on the classic garlic mayonnaise is as simple as blending mayo and fresh ginger in a processor.

Joe Dion of North Charleston, South Carolina, writes: "Because I work in a restaurant (I'm a chef at a place called Slightly North of Broad in Charleston), I don't let my cooking at home get too complicated. I'm at the restaurant five days a week and often work on weekends, but whenever I have the chance I enjoy getting together with friends and cooking for them." Frozen puff pastry simplifies this dessert.

The salmon is equally good served hot or cold. What to drink: Chardonnay or white Burgundy, such as Saint-Véran.

A nice brunch dish as well as a light supper. What to drink: New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.

Roasting the meat uncovered during the last hour allows the sauce to reduce. Serve with the Cauliflower-Leek Kugel with Almond-Herb Crust and steamed asparagus. The brisket can be made two days ahead.

Ask your butcher to butterfly the chicken breasts. What to drink: Unoaked Chardonnay.