Rick Martinez

Other not-too-hot chiles are great with the same seasonings if you can’t find Padróns. Look for shishitos or Italian frying peppers instead.

The parcooking is essential for a tender result, but the extra effort’s worth it.

This is also delicious with pretty spring onions; increase cooking time to 6 or 8 minutes.

Faster! Faster! Skip the pickling and just top the curry with sliced fresh Fresno chiles. Or leave them out altogether if you’re spice-averse.