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Simple Cooking

El Jefe's Glove-Box Recado

Like some sort of drug dealer, Joe (aka the big boss) has been known to keep a small plastic bag of this addictive Mexican spice rub in his glove box. And indeed, it's never a bad thing to have on hand. Although the recipe has a few steps to it, it's well worth the effort. At the restaurant, we use it to season everything from corn on the cob to chicken to our Spring booty taco. When cooking with it, just beware that it's quite salty. Also, it keeps for a long time, which means that you may want to make a double batch.

A Summer's Night Shrimp Cocktail

Telmo grew up in a Mexican neighborhood in San Jose, California. On warm evenings, he could be found at a busy roadside seafood joint called La Costa spooning up refreshing bites of coctel de camarón, or "shrimp cocktail." Served in a tall Styrofoam cup, the La Costa cocktail combines a sweet (but not cloying), tangy, and spicy tomato-based sauce, briny poached shrimp, avocado, cucumber, and pico de gallo, all topped with some shakes of a salsa picante and served with tostadas or saltine crackers. Our version is made with roasted fresh tomatoes instead of the traditional ketchup to brighten it up. The resulting sauce is more like a gazpacho than the typical country club-style cocktail sauce. The cocktail can be assembled a couple of hours ahead of time, but not too far in advance, as the shrimp becomes rubbery if left in the lime juice for too long. To make this shrimp cocktail into easy party fare, spoon it onto small store-bought tostadas, garnish with a little cilantro, and serve.

Grilled Corn on the Cob with Glove-Box Recado

Chilly as July and August can be in San Francisco, you know it's summer when this delicious corn hits the Tacolicious menu. (It is so good that it transports you to sunshine, even if the city is socked in by fog and you're wearing a scarf.) If you already have the recado ready to go, this recipe is a cinch to make. Although the smokiness of the grill imparts great flavor, you can instead briefly boil the corn ears, halve them, and toss them with the recado-lime juice mixture. With the lime and the spices, no butter is needed. Try swapping out the corn for another vegetable, such as summer squash. To keep this recipe in the snack realm, chop the ears into thirds.

Our Favorite Texas Beef Chili

This cowboy-style "bowl of red" is all about tender chunks of beef chuck and a five-chile-pepper purée.

Coriander Chicken Thighs with Miso-Glazed Root Vegetables

The root vegetables in this dish have a secret umami booster: miso paste. This recipe also offers a delicious way to use those oft-discarded beet and turnip greens. If you can’t find beets or turnips with greens, simply reduce the amount of each vegetable to 1/2 pound.

Ranch Dip with Vegetables

The best thing about making ranch from scratch? If you like a more garlicky or more herby ranch, the choice is yours to adjust the recipe accordingly.

Yogurt-Lime Sorbet

It doesn't come out of a soft-serve machine, and you can't twist it, but our version of fro-yo wins at everything else.

Roasted Potato Bread

Straight talk: This is the greatest sandwich bread a person could ever hope for. And you absolutely need a stand mixer to make it.

Bucatini with Tomato, Guanciale, and Chile

Think of this as a carbonara, but with tomatoes in place of the eggs.

Thai Celery Salad with Peanuts

"Celery is the perfect vehicle for a salty, assertive dressing like this one. Chiles and peanuts make it that much more addictive." —Alison Roman, senior associate food editor

Crushed Cucumbers with Lime Pickle and Coconut

If you haven't cooked with MSG before, give it a try.

Celery Tonic

"The herbal notes of gin pair well with celery in this refreshing cocktail—and bonus points for the cool green color." —Claire Saffitz, assistant food editor

Kale and Celery Tiger Salad

Loaded with fresh herbs and sturdy kale and then set off by a bright and spicy dressing, this is an ideal counterpoint to the more decadent dishes on the table.

Crab Toasts with Spicy Yogurt

Used in place of mayonnaise, yogurt brings tang and brightness to these crostini.

Trouble in Paradise

Tosca's cocktails are so good people drink them well into the meal.

Green Bean and Tomato Salad with Buttermilk Dressing

David Chang's buttermilk dressing is our kind of ranch. Use the freshest beans possible: You want that tender snap.

Labneh

Top this thickened, spreadable yogurt with a drizzle of olive oil and some spices (we're suckers for za'atar).

Tuna Melt

In search of a classic tuna melt? This is the best we've tried. Palace Diner makes its own pickles, but of course you can start with store-bought.

Pasta with Pesto, Shrimp, and Cured Ham

A version of this recipe helped Danny Bowien win the Pesto World Championship in Italy in 2008. He was kind enough to let us adapt it a bit.
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